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New Collaboration between BFREE, Penn State University, and University of Tennessee Knoxville

BFREE is excited to announce a new innovative collaboration among faculty and students from Penn State University, the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, and BFREE. The overall goal is to build on BFREE’s cacao agroforestry program by initiating science-based projects that both develop and enhance our understanding of the novel cacao-based agroforestry systems at BFREE and, more broadly, for Belize and Central America. Our hope is this new program will support sustainable development goals while conserving tropical rainforest.

Three projects have been awarded seed grants totaling almost $150,000 as part of the Penn State-BFREE Research and Education Initiative. Funding for this initiative was provided by Penn State Cacao and Chocolate Research Network (CCRN), the Hershey Company, Penn State Global, Penn State Huck Institutes of Life Sciences, Ag Sciences Global in Penn State’s College of Agricultural Sciences, and a private donor affiliated with BFREE.

One project seeks to identify a range of woody plant species in Belize, which incorporated into future cacao agroforestry systems could bolster biodiversity, enhance ecosystem services, and increase climate resilience. An outcome of this effort will be the creation of a comprehensive resource — the “Belize Agroforestry Manual.” Designed to be practical and accessible and provide information to BFREE staff and Belizean farmers and landholders on suitable woody plant species, their uses, benefits, various practices, and adoption guidance.

A second collaboration revolves around the ancient criollo cacao varieties at BFREE. The cacao trees will be studied with the goal of developing distinctive agroforestry systems that combat deforestation and empower local communities. The project will delve into the adaptability of criollo cacao across diverse environments and its potential to preserve biodiversity.

A third project includes the expertise of Penn State, the University of Tennessee, Knoxville and international specialists in cacao fermentation. Together, they aim to unravel the mysteries behind the flavors of wild criollo cacao. This research includes sensory evaluations and a comprehensive examination of economically vital attributes like flavor and lipids. The goal is to craft fermentation and roasting guidelines that maximize flavor. Furthermore, genetic information will be connected to important commercial traits of wild criollo cacao, opening new horizons in chocolate production, which can provide insights for BFREE’s up and coming chocolate company, Crioco, as it embarks on its business venture in the near future.  

UTK PhD candidate Holly Brabazon’s research is focused on the genetics of the wild cacao trees found at BFREE. Based on previous sequencing performed by the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund and the
Cocoa Research Center at the University of West Indies in Trinidad, these trees were identified as pure Criollo. Criollo cacao is highly valued for its fine flavor qualities but is extremely rare in cultivation
partly because of susceptibility to modern cacao pathogens, relatively low productivity, and a long history of interbreeding with other varieties. The overall objective of her project is to provide a robust,
sustainable framework for Belizean farmers to grow this high-value, shade-tolerant, locally adapted Criollo cacao variety. 
 
The first step will be to understand the population structure of the Criollo cacao trees at BFREE by partially sequencing the genomes of the 300 standing trees. Analyses of the sequence data will allow us to
answer several important questions regarding mating biology, pollen dispersal, breeding patterns within and among the different phenotypic variants, and recent history of Criollo cacao at BFREE. These data
will provide a foundation for a second planned study analyzing parentage of seeds to determine patterns of pollen flow throughout this population and for future genomic studies aimed at understanding or
improving various Criollo phenotypic traits of interest.

Motus Wildlife Tracking System Background: What is Motus?

Part I in a five-part series

Motus is a relatively recent program in Belize. But what is Motus? What is it used for? Who uses Motus, and how is it beneficial? These are possibly just a few questions which may come to anyone’s mind upon hearing the word for the first time. There is a lot to learn about Motus – how highly beneficial it is to the scientific community, to private landowners and managers, to stewards and caretakers of protected areas, to forest and nature reserve managers, to educators and students, and even to the local populace. It is a tool which provides meaningful data on current and future migratory ecological wildlife studies.  Such data can be utilized by decision makers, especially in government circles, to help prioritize areas for wildlife protection. In general, Motus (the Latin word for movement), is an international collaborative network of researchers that use automated radio telemetry to simultaneously track and study the migratory movements of birds, bats, and large insects at local, regional, and hemispheric scales. Therefore, this article aims to look at Motus in a bit more detail.

Motus was developed by Bird Studies Canada in 2014. Funding and support was provided by Canadian Foundation for Innovation grant, in partnership with Acadia University, (Nova Scotia), Western University (Ontario), the University of Guelph (Ontario), and other collaborating researchers and organizations. 

In March 2023, BFREE became a part of this international network by installing two antennas to the 145′ radio tower at BFREE adjacent to the dining room (Lat. 16.5551o Lon. 88.7065o). Prior to the BFREE installation, only one Motus Tower existed in Belize and this tower was installed at Toucan Ridge Ecology and Education Society (TREES) on May 2022 in Central Belize (Lat. 17.0526o Lon. 88.5654o). Following the BFREE installation, another Motus Tower was installed at the Lamanai Field Research Station in Northern Belize (Lat. 17.7521o Lon. 88.6538o). The other two closest Motus Towers to Belize are in neighboring Guatemala. The yellow dots indicate where Motus towers have been installed and activated in Belize and Guatemala.  (Figs. 1 & 2).

Motus continues to expand globally. For example, in the USA along the Pacific Coast flyways, Motus towers are being installed along the coasts of Oregon and Washington. The towers in these areas are collecting data on shore-bird movements such as Western Sandpiper, Sanderling, Semipalmated Plover, and Dunlin. Interestingly, all four species except for the Dunlin, are regular winter visitors along Belize’s shoreline and Cayes, while the Dunlin is considered a “transient” species but also uses the coastline and Cayes as stopover sites while migrating to countries further south. Such data continues to provide valuable information on migratory pathways, stopover sites, breeding, and wintering habitats of these birds. Researchers, scientists, and biologists working in this region are also working with partners in Mexico on Birds of Conservation Concern such as the Pacific Red Knot, one of the longest distance flyers of any shorebird. Interestingly, Belize has very few records of this species along the northern coastline.

Western Sandpiper is a shore-bird sometimes spotted in the Bladen River and is one that Motus technology is tracking. Image courtesy of Cornell Lab Photo Library of Birds

Data collected from the Motus Towers detects the different estuaries where the Pacific Red Knot migrates, how they’re using estuaries, and how long they stay there. In 2022, several Motus stations were installed in Puerto Rico in partnership with Birds Caribbean. The Caribbean Motus Collaboration (CMC) was formed to expand the Motus network in the Caribbean as part of the Landbird Monitoring Project. Recently, through the Neotropical Migratory Bird Conservation Act (NMBCA) grant program, the international collaboration expanded and funded additional Motus station installations and research across the Americas, including the first Motus bird monitoring network in Mexico.

During its first three years, Motus expanded to include more than 120 independent research projects, and comprised over 325 active receiver stations across 11 countries and 3 continents. This rich and comprehensive data set included detections of individuals during all phases of the annual cycle (breeding, migration, and non-breeding).

According to a recent article written by Rosalie Wetzel and published in May 2023, Motus has grown to include more than 1,200 stations across 31 countries. Again, the yellow dots indicate Motus stations throughout the world. Motus is indeed the largest international collaborative research network that brings together organizations and individuals to facilitate research and education on the ecology and conservation of flying migratory species.

Most of the information and graphics used in this article were obtained from the following sources:

  • Birds Canada. 2019. Motus Wildlife Tracking System. Port Rowan, Ontario. Available: http://www.motus.org. Accessed: October 2, 2023.
  • Taylor, et.al. 2017. The Motus Wildlife Tracking System: a collaborative research network to enhance the understanding of wildlife movement. Accessed: October 4, 2023.
  • Rosalie Wetzel. May 31, 2023. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Motus Stations: Tracking Migrations from Coast to Coast. Accessed: October 5, 2023.
  • Michael Rogers summary of BFREE Motus Tower. October 2023.

Stay tuned for Series Article Part II: How does Motus work?

The Fascinating Characteristics of Sundew

By Mark Canti

The astonishing characteristics of sundews are unbelievable to me. During two research trips with Dr. Rob Naczi of NY Botanical Garden, I learned a lot about plants, especially sedges. I was introduced to carnivorous plants and found them fascinating. I was shocked to learn that while walking around, we have been stepping on a lot of different species of exciting plants!

The Sundew was one of the common plants I saw in the field and it caught my attention because of the uniqueness of its survival skills. It is a variable perennial plant (meaning the plant can adapt to any environment and that the plant will grow, die out and grow again). I learned a lot of the basics of this plant in the field and, because of my interest, I continued my research after returning from my most recent research trip.

According to the International Carnivorous Plant Society, Sundews are generally about 4 cm in diameter. An individual leaf is about 5 mm long and 4 mm wide with erected scapes from the center of the plant about 8 cm long. The sepals have hairy glands that secrete sundew glue and the plant colouration ranges from pale green to deep red. It has approximately six pink or white small flowers that are constantly self-pollinating. Sundews have almost 200 different species making it one of the most diverse of all carnivorous plants.

Sundews capture their prey from glistening drops of dew at the tips of the hairy-like tentacles on their leaves. A healthy plant can have a hundred dew drops which makes it look gorgeously dainty and beautiful, but it is a sticky death trap for small insects. They have the ability to move or bend their tentacles in contact to respond to their edible prey. When an insect is trapped, it either succumbs to death through exhaustion or through suffocation as the fluid from the plant releases encloses, and blocks the opening of the insect exoskeletons. Death usually occurs within 15 minutes. (Photo credit left: internet image)

Meanwhile, the plant has trapped its prey, the plant secretes enzymes that will dissolve the insects which will free the nutrients that are trapped within its body. Eventually, the nutrient mixture is then absorbed through the leaf surfaces to be used by the rest of the plant.

Antique botany illustration: Drosera rotundifolia, round-leaved sundew

This is a plant that is common throughout the country of Belize and can be found in wet pine savannas. Discovering Sundews made me realize that many of us in Belize have no idea how extraordinary nature can be. This experience made me curious to learn about the multiple thousands of plant species that exist in this country.

As the Cacao Fellow for BFREE’s agroforestry program, I have gained a deep appreciation and understanding of nature. As someone who loves Belize, I’m dedicated to protecting our beautiful environment by understanding and appreciating the natural world around us. This research has taught me about the significance of each organism’s existence and its essential role in maintaining the environment.

Brittnacher, J. (2017, July). Drosera spatulata Species Complex. International Carnivorous Plant Society. https://www.carnivorousplants.org/cp/taxonomy/Droseraspatulata

Naming Opportunity for a New Species of Beaksedge

By Dr. Robert Naczi and Heather Barrett

Through his research to document the diversity and conservation status of Belizean sedges, Dr. Robert Naczi of New York Botanical Garden recently discovered a species of beaksedge previously unknown to science. In Belize, the Sedge Family (Cyperaceae) is one of the five largest (most species-rich) plant families. Beaksedges (genus Rhynchospora) are a diverse and ecologically important group of flowering plants, especially in the tropics. Beaksedges constitute the largest genus of plants in Belize, with 53 species.

When a scientist formally publishes a new species in order to make it known to the world, the new scientific name is one of the most exciting parts of the publication. This name becomes the means of communicating about the species throughout the world. Because this name will be permanent and must be unique, its formation is very important and provides an opportunity to be creative.

The fact the new species of beaksedge is unnamed presents an opportunity. Dr. Naczi has generously offered to donate the naming rights to BFREE to support our spring fundraising. Therefore, from Earth Day until Arbor Day (donations made in response to this eNews will also be included), any donation of $100.00 or more will be entered into a raffle to win the opportunity to name the beaksedge. The minimum value of this naming opportunity has been set by Dr. Naczi at $15,000.00 with all proceeds going towards BFREE’s conservation programs. For every $100.00 you donate, your name is entered into the raffle one time. The more you donate, the more chances you have to win! To donate today, click here.

Note: The fundraiser must reach its minimum goal of $15,000 for the raffle to occur.    

The new species is remarkable in several ways. It is known only from Belize, and increases the number of known plant species restricted to Belize to 42, highlighting the importance of Belize as a biodiversity hotspot. Also, this new species belongs to a group of species most diverse in the eastern U.S.A. In fact, this new species is the only member of this group that is restricted to the tropics. Its occurrence in Belize is completely unexpected, but Belize is full of surprises!

Botanical drawing of the newly identified Beaksedge – Copyright Bobbi Angell

BFREE Installs Songbird Migration Monitoring Antennas

by Michael Rogers

This March, BFREE proudly joined as a collaborator in the International Motus Network! Motus, which is Latin for the word ‘movement,’ is the future in migratory ecology studies. Scientists throughout the world are now afixing tiny radio transmitters to their species of interest, be at a thrush, warbler, or even a bat or imperiled monarch butterfly. These miniature devices send out a unique identifying pulse every 30 seconds, and if they pass within six miles of a host antenna station, the tag is automatically detected and uploaded into a public database, not just for the benefit of those scientists, but rather for anybody interested in the health and welfare of our migratory species.

This newer technology is groundbreaking because it is no longer necessary to recapture the bird in order to get the device and download it into a computer. Instead, the data collection is automated. However, if there are no receiving antennas on the ground, there is nothing to receive and record that migrating species.

Just in time for spring migration, I traveled to Belize with the missing components of the BFREE Motus Antenna. Together I worked with Mario Teul, Pedro Witz and Heather Barrett (who was collaborating from the US at the time) to get the BFREE computers set up to receive and manage the data. Mario then worked on assembling the antenna while Jacob Marlin and Tom Pop prepared for Jacob to climb the tower. Jacob free climbed the 140 feet on the communication tower above the BFREE office, and through brilliant rope and poly engineering, he installed the two antennas!

BFREE hosts only the second Motus receiving station in all of Belize!

We are proud to do our part and help scientists see a more complete picture of migration patterns. With Motus, scientists are now see a more accurately calculate migration timing, key stopover sites, and even to a certain extent evaluate site fidelity both in their breeding grounds and here in their overwintering grounds. This new information will help guide future conservation practices.

With great thanks to Birds Canada, who oversees the International Motus network and who also generously donated the antennas. For more information on Motus, go to www.motus.org

Special Thanks to the Author

BFREE would like to give special thanks to Michael Rogers. After traveling to BFREE in January to volunteer with his partner Rebecca, Michael took on the not-so-easy task of determining why our current Motus station wasn’t functioning. Through diligent research and support, Michael generously funded the purchase of many of the key elements needed and returned to Belize to support the installation at BFREE. Michael’s enthusiasm, initiative, and problem-solving skills made this Motus tower possible for us and we are supremely grateful!

Michael (pictured left) with the staff of Runaway Creek Nature Reserve, deploying Motus trackers on migratory songbirds with school children from Mahogany Heights.

The Journey of Nutrition at the HCRC

By Barney Hall, Wildlife Fellow

Dermatemys mawii (Hicatee) hatchlings at the Hicatee Conservation and Research Center  (HCRC) are frequently caught during a tour in order to give visitors a hands-on experience and a unique opportunity to hold such a rare turtle. With that being said, each time Tom catches a turtle he quickly analyzes the health of the hatchlings and is pleased when he confirms that the shells are very hard compared to the past hatchlings. You might be curious to know what has changed.

Background

Prior to our work at the HCRC, the hicatee has never been successfully held captive for breeding for any length of time. Past research using dissection of the turtle’s intestinal tract has shown different types of plant vegetation but no indication of carnivorous activity and helps us better understand what they feed on. Because of this, a cycle is done at the facility where Tom and Barney collect fig leaves, cecropia leaves, paspalum grass and occasionally basket tie-tie  to try and meet the turtle’s nutritional requirements. However, in the wild there are way more varieties and minerals the turtle could feed on to help them gain calcium carbonate to strengthen their shells. For this very reason research was needed to locate a source to find that missing nutritional component. 

Some visitors to the HCRC during a Hicatee Health Assessment recommended we supplement the turtle’s diet with a prepared and specific pre-made turtle food. So, we asked some visitors to bring some Mazuri diet down when they came and we tried it with our hatchlings. When we saw some positive changes, we asked Rick Hudson for help getting more bags to Belize. He jumped in and asked Mark Dennison of Mazuri Turtle Diet for a donation of food to the Belize program. Mazuri turtle diet is a nutritionally complete turtle food for all freshwater species and stages of life. Since it’s a complete diet, all necessary components of a reptile’s nutritional needs are accounted for in its formulation. In fact, all Mazuri diets are formulated by in-house Ph.D Exotic Animal Nutritionists and manufactured to exacting standards to ensure the best quality and complete, constant nutrition for captive held reptiles (Mazuri nutrition 2021). 

The food is not available in Belize and we don’t currently have the conditions for long-term storage of large amounts of turtle food (although, thanks to our partner, Zoo New England, we have plans in the works to remedy that). In the meantime, we deal with an elaborate process of ordering bags, getting them imported into Belize and then transported to BFREE.  

A New Supply for 2023

This January, Wildlife Fellow Barney Hall and HCRC Manager Tom Pop were able to get in contact with Mr. Mark Dennison again. This was due to Tom’s encounter with Mr. Mark at the 20th Annual Symposium on the Conservation and Biology of Tortoises and Freshwater Turtlesn Tucson, Arizona. 

Tom describes his encounter as follows, “We met briefly at the turtle conference last year in Tucson, Arizona. Mark told me he had shipped Mazuri food pellets to Mr. Rick Hudson which were then shipped to Belize. I explained how the pellets arrived to us in Belize and how beneficial they have been to the young hatchlings’ health at the facility. We noticed that our hatchlings were not forming hard shells, meaning that their diet requirements were not being met, until we introduced the Mazuri pellets”.  Mr. Mark was very delighted by our efforts and great remarks about the food quality he provides, so immediately offered to donate six more bags of pellets to the HCRC!

We have noticed clear improvements in our turtles’ health at the HCRC, especially our young hatchlings, since beginning to provide Mazuri pellets. We supplement their regular feedings with Mazuri diet and take observations each month to check the progress on shell development. Over time, results have shown that all hatchlings now have very hard shells and seem to have overcome the lack of calcium that was previously impacting their health. The turtles love the pellets and devour the food so very fast that we average one sack of pellets per month. Another great benefit of the pellets is that they float which creates a natural feeding behavior to the young turtles when introduced days after they have hatched.  In total, we have successfully released 416 captive-bred healthy turtles back into the wild to areas where they were once abundant to try and augment populations.

A Special Thanks

We very much look forward to receiving the turtle diet in the coming weeks. On behalf of BFREE and the HCRC, we would like to thank Mr. Mark and the team of Mazuri.  We hope to build this connection stronger for future collaborations to keep providing the best care and nutrition to the critically-endangered Hicatee turtle. 

BFREE Conservation and Research Coordinator

The Belize Foundation for Research & Environmental Education (BFREE) is seeking to hire a qualified person (Belizean) for a full-time position to coordinate BFREE Conservation and Research programs.  The position requires an advanced level, understanding, and mastery of the environmental and biological sciences.

Summary of the role:

The position requires a strong grasp of environmental sustainability, biodiversity conservation, biological sciences, science and research methodologies, leadership skills, project and personnel management, excellent communication skills, and an entrepreneurial approach to engaging corporate, government, and individual stakeholders. Most importantly, the candidate must bring a strong passion for conserving tropical forests and wildlife to the job. The Coordinator’s responsibilities are split between three programmatic areas as described below.

Programmatic Areas Include:

Dermatemys mawii Conservation Program (50%)

Responsible for spearheading efforts and collaborating with multiple stakeholders on the implementation of the Dermatemys Conservation, Management and Action Plan for the country of Belize. The Coordinator will work closely with multiple stakeholders including government agencies, researchers, non-government organizations, community-based organizations, communities and civil society. Activities include:

  • Advance the coordination and implementation of the National Dermatemys Conservation, Management and Action Plan to be finalized and circulated in mid-2023.     
  • Develop and implement a fundraising strategy to support the implementation of the National Conservation, Management and Action Plan, including developing and submitting proposals to fund components of the plan.
  • Strengthen relationships with partners, including the development of MOU’s
  • Coordinate national and regional workshops.
  • Facilitate and consult with the Hicatee Working Group (an active network of stakeholders working with Hicatee in Belize).

Cacao Agroforestry Program (25%)

Responsible for overseeing the data collection, management, and analysis of the Cacao agroforestry program at BFREE. The coordinator will work closely with multiple partners including visiting researchers and university partners, government agencies, non-government organizations, communities, and civil society.

  • Advance the coordination and implementation of the Cacao Agroforestry program.
  • Maintain and update the cacao agroforestry digital database.
  • Become knowledgeable of the program and associated on-going conservation initiatives.
  • Attend meetings involving key partners, including universities, researchers, government, and NGO’s.
  • Coordinate and work closely with Cacao leadership staff to ensure research and data management activities are conducted effectively.
  • Draft and submit bi-annual and annual reports.

Wildlife and Environmental Research and Monitoring Programs (25%)

Responsible for spearheading efforts and collaborating with multiple stakeholders on the wildlife research and monitoring programs at the BFREE privately protected area. The coordinator will work closely with multiple stakeholders including visiting researchers, university partners, and BFREE staff.

  • Strengthen and further develop and implement a multi-taxa wildlife monitoring program at the BFREE privately protected area.
  • Oversee the science at the Hicatee Conservation and Research Center (HCRC) including data management and analysis.
  • Oversee the wildlife remote camera monitoring program at BFREE including data/image management.
  • Communicate with and coordinate with visiting researchers at BFREE.
  • Manage the collection, storage and analysis of the climate data at BFREE.

 QUALIFICATIONS:

Education and Experience

  • Ph.D. (preferred) or Master’s in Environmental science, ecology, sustainability, other natural/social sciences or related fields.
  • At least 5 years of professional experience, with a minimum of 3 years in a leadership and management position.
  • Management experience in the fields of conservation and natural resource management, in particular tropical forest ecology, wildlife biology and ecosystem management, with preference given towards persons with experience in sustainable agriculture and endangered species conservation. 
  • Experience in corporate and government engagement, preferably in Belize, coupled with experience of influencing policy and practice in both government and NGO sectors.
  • Requires good understanding of national laws and local traditions that help protect forests and wildlife, and the realities of local law enforcement practices.
  • In-depth knowledge of conservation and environmental sustainability issues and solutions, especially as they relate to Belize.
  • Thorough understanding of, and experience in, championing and communicating the benefits of nature and conservation to people and society.
  • Experience in staff management, with track record in motivating and mentoring staff and inspiring people through example.
  • Proposal writing and project implementation experience.
  • Budget development and financial management and reporting experience.

Additional skills needed:

  • Self-starter with a high level of motivation and drive.
  • Strong experience in administrative procedures and financial practices.
  • Possess excellent organizational skills and ability to write and speak persuasively.
  • Experience in project management and collaboration with external partners
  • Ability to coordinate with a diverse set of stakeholders on complex projects, and to multi-task and balance multiple projects simultaneously.
  • Ability to manage multiple priorities with strong skills in planning and problem-solving.
  • Excellent data management and analysis skills.
  • Strong understanding of program delivery and evaluation methodologies.
  • Strong organizational and project management skills.
  • Advanced level proficiency in Google, MS Office, GIS, and Geospatial Mapping
  • Fluency in English and Spanish.
  • Valid Driver’s License is Recommended.

DETAILS:

This full-time position starts in March  2023. This is a one-year position with the opportunity to continue after evaluation. The BFREE Conservation and Research Coordinator must have their own workspace with internet connection, as the position is a remote working environment. Office equipment and supplies will be provided including a computer, software, communications, etc. Some travel is required for meetings, workshops, outreach engagements, and visits to partner sites and monthly visits to the BFREE Field Station. A 4×4 vehicle will be available on an as needed basis.

SALARY and BENEFITS:

Salary is competitive for high-level, leadership roles in Belize and are based on experience. An annual in-country travel fund is included.

APPLY:

Please submit applications to Heather Barrett at jobs@bfreebz.org by March 6, 2023. Applications are to include a cover letter detailing their interest in the position and associated experience, an up-to-date resume or curriculum vitae, and three references. Only complete applications will be considered.

The Review Of Cacao Explorations and Germplasm Movements

by the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund (HCP)

The Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund (HCP) has partnered with Dr. Lambert A. Motilal to create a comprehensive evaluation of all cacao-growing countries around the world. The Review Of Cacao Explorations and Germplasm Movements is a 300-page review is comprised with riveting information regarding the history, genetics, flavor profiles, and cultivation areas of each country.

The purpose of the review is to enrich readers with the understanding of cacao origins, migrations and explorations of cacao varieties have taken place over time, and where future collections should be focused.

Cacao is an important tree crop impacting on livelihoods of millions of farming families in tropical and sub-tropical countries worldwide. This review serves to help conserve cocoa genetic diversity by identifying places for in situ collection and germplasm collection for ex situ genebanks.

To celebrate the launch of The Review, Jacob Marlin, BFREE Executive Director and HCP President, participated in a webinar with Dr. Motilal and Anne Zaczek, HCP Executive Director. The event was hosted by the Fine Chocolate Industry Association (FCIA) as part of their on-going webinar series.

You can now download your copy of #TheReview on at the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund website! We encourage cacao enthusiasts to donate to the research efforts that made this publication possible, and to support future research possibilities, Heirloom cacao, and HCP farmers.

The Science of Fine Chocolate

by Jacob Marlin

The flavor attributes of chocolate, especially fine flavor chocolate, is determined by numerous factors: 1. Genetics of the cacao, 2. The farming practices implemented, 3. The location, biophysical features, and climactic conditions of where it is grown (also called terrior), 4. The time of harvest, 5. Fermentation protocols, 6. Drying methods, and finally the chocolate-making including, 7. Roasting and, 8. The final recipe. Each of these factors has tremendous variability and requires specific expertise to successfully implement the management and interventions.

Fermentation is a critical aspect in flavor development and final acidity of a finished chocolate bar. You can’t hide bad fermentation in chocolate. If the beans are over-fermented, they yield an undesirable, wet “barnyard” type flavor. If they are under-fermented, the results are an astringent attack on your tastebuds that causes your mouth to pucker.

Even with the best farming practices producing the finest beans, if the fermentation is not done to its fullest potential the results will be disappointing at best. Our work to determine this important stage in producing some of the world’s finest chocolate is an important part of our current efforts.

BFREE began a collaboration with Dancing Lion Chocolate in Manchester, New Hampshire, to begin to determine the best fermentation protocols for Criollo cacao. Crioco Cacao’s Operations Manager, Elmer Tzalam, and I managed the fermentation experiment at the BFREE Field Station. Because there is no information on successful fermentation of the rare and ancient Criollo cacao, we had to undertake our methods based on limited information. We instituted three separate fermentation protocols and upon completion sent these batches to Dancing Lion Chocolate, where my good friend and colleague Rich Tango-Lowy and my son, Shaman Marlin, processed the beans into chocolate using a standardized roasting methodology. These three profiles were then molded into exquisite artfully designed hand crafted limited release specialty chocolate bars. Dancing Lion Chocolates is not your typical chocolate shop. Each bar is a work of art – visually dazzling and delicious. And chocolate is made in small batches and only one time in that exact way, they never repeat the same recipe twice. Rich has used BFREE Criollo cacao in the past on a few specialty bars and bonbons. After visiting BFREE with his wife, Torene, and Dancing Lion’s Baker, Donna McLintock, we began a conversation on how to improve and refine our fermentation methods.

I’m thrilled to announce that our initial collaboration was a success. Chocolate from these three different batches will be sold this year through Dancing Lion Chocolate. I’m especially proud to acknowledge Shaman Marlin who has been working at Dancing Lion for over a year and was responsible for making the chocolate in these bars! A very limited supply will be available in the shop and online after Thanksgiving. The bars can be identified by Criollo I, Criollo II, and Criollo III.

By determining the best fermentation protocols based on continuous feedback, revisions can be made until the process reveals the unique flavor attributes intrinsic to this unique cacao. In 2016, the BFREE cacao beans and chocolate were designated “heirloom fine flavor” by the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund (HCP), one of only 16 cacao varieties throughout the world to receive such an honor. In order to get designated “Heirloom Fine Flavor”, beans are submitted to HCP blind, meaning the chocolate maker, in collaboration with Guittard Chocolate, does not know where the beans were sourced. Once made into chocolate liquor and chocolate, it is tasted, also blind, by a 9-person panel made up of the world’s most expert chocolate tasters. If the flavor meets a very high mark, the beans are designated Heirloom. Based on those results and additional feedback and reviews, we are confident that this Criollo cacao is unlike any other cacao in the world, and this inspires us to continue our efforts to master the process, from the nursery to fermentation to chocolate bar.

From Bean to Bar: BFREE’s cacao program bears fruit

by Jacob Marlin

Over the past three years, BFREE has been doing research and experimentation to develop a model for farming the BFREE Criollo cacao, under its for-profit – Crioco Cacao, LLC. The goal is to create healthy and productive trees that yield cacao beans that are ultimately made into some of the world’s best Heirloom Fine Flavor chocolate. So, we are experimenting with creating conditions in the farm as well post-harvesting protocols including fermentation and drying techniques. Our work is challenging and requires a lot of innovation. Primarily because this cacao has been growing in isolation on BFREE property for thousands of years and has not been worked with by anyone in the cacao industry.

Specifically, experiments have focused on fine-scaled management of the farm setting to provide the optimal conditions for cacao tree health. This includes planting and managing temporary and permanent shade trees, as this variety of cacao has been growing under the natural canopy of the rainforest for thousands of years, and requires a lot of shade. To date, we have planted over 10,000 criollo cacao trees and an equal amount of shade trees representing 25 soil enriching native forest and fruit tree species. The work begins in the nursery with very specific protocols including grafting robust seedlings with clonal material from the most productive criollo trees on site, and continues as the young trees are transplanted into the farm. Specific pruning protocols, of both the cacao and shade trees is a constant endeavor, and careful management is required as each tree has its own unique set of conditions and expressions. Organic nutrition is applied throughout the year, and regular observations and adaptive management takes place as the dry and rainy seasons set in. Extensive data is collected throughout the year, providing the basis for improving management and adapting the conditions to best reflect the perceived requirements of this rare and unusual cacao.   

Historically, much of the available literature states that cacao trees with a high percentage of criollo genetics are very difficult to get optimal productivity because of low yield, are prone to disease and pests, and are difficult to cultivate on a commercial scale. However, initial results from our work suggest otherwise. We are finding that with careful and specific management activities, this unique variety of 100% Criollo genetics shows promise that it can be highly productive given the right conditions.

After three years of trial and error plus the hard work of our staff as well as meaningful contributions from expert advisors, we are narrowing in on the exact conditions for the trees to thrive. As the pictures below illustrate, trees in the best condition are showing very high levels of productivity after just two years and promise to bear fruit in the years to come. These early results keep us working toward our goal to create a thriving cacao agroforestry system which restores forests and provides habitat for a wide array of wildlife species while also providing some of the world’s finest chocolate to the consumer while simultaneously providing a sustainable climate smart source of revenue for BFREE to further achieve our important conservation work.